So, the jury is still out on this one, but I have high hopes that this is a great solution to gooey, globbed up skin glue that occasionally sticks to your ski base, and will negate, or at least delay, the need to reglue your climbing skins. I treated three pairs of my skins to what Iâ€™m calling the Iron Skin Glue Recharge, and so far the results have been pleasing. Long term results will be the final factor though and if anyone has any experience using this technique, please feel free to share your thoughts on if it works in the long term or not.
Manky, gooey and globbed up skin glue.
There is some speculation as to why the glue on climbing skins gets all gooey over time. Some say itâ€™s from keeping them too close, and for too long of a time, over a heat source while drying. Others say that itâ€™s from contamination or oxidation over time from some chemical that the glue doesnâ€™t like. Iâ€™ve also heard others state that gooey glue is a result of water getting embedded into the glue. Regardless of what your thoughts on this are (I think itâ€™s probably a combination of them all), regluing skins is often the go-to fix to get your skins back in shape. But regluing skins is time consuming, messy and kind of a crappy job that few people (myself included) look forward to. Therefore, any way to avoid a skin reglue is welcome, IMO.
If you have some spots on your skins that are void of glue, just smear some
neighboring glue around with the corner of your iron to cover them. Be sure to
clean your iron with a rag or paper towel before waxing your skis though.
So, whatâ€™s this â€œanswer to my prayersâ€ to avoid regluing, you ask? Well, itâ€™s basically a way to smooth out the surface of the skin glue, and rumor has it, remove water that has become embedded deep inside. Itâ€™s a pretty easy task as well and done by running an iron down the length of the skin glue and using the backing paper that came with the skins as a barrier. Itâ€™s very similar to what you would do if you were using Black Diamond Glue Renew Sheets, but instead of applying the new glue that is attached to the sheet, you are just using the glue that is already on the climbing skin.
Even the worst areas will look way better after an Iron Skin Glue Recharge.
The biggest thing you need to worry about when doing this, is to make sure you put the correct side of the backing paper, the shiny side, on the glue so it will release from the glue properly. If you screw up and put the matte finished side on the glue, it will absorb all the glue and you will be hosed. Some say you can also use parchment paper, instead of the backing paper that came with the skins, but I donâ€™t have much experience using it since Iâ€™ve been saving the back paper of my skins ever since I started to hear about this technique. If you have some patch fo skin with no glue left on them, use the corner of your iron to smear around some neighboring glue to cover them.
Use the iron to smear any glue that may have oozed over the edge of the skin.
I find setting the iron at a pretty high temperature (like 250-300F) works best and it usually takes me about 45-60 seconds to make one pass from end to end. I make two passes and then wait for everything to cool off before removing the backing paper. Depending on how much glue is on your skins, and how much downward pressure you put on the iron, may cause some glue to ooze over the edges of the skin. Running the iron down the edge and smearing the glue back onto the base of the skin works well to clean them though and keep the glue from gumming up your ski edge.
Anyway, I guess I will report back after a month or two of using the skins I ironed, and let you know if I think this is an honest to goodness fix for manky glue. But like I said, I have high hopes. Have a great weekend!!